The Ohio Valley Firewood Guide: What to Burn, What to Skip, and Why It Matters
If you're burning wood in the Ohio Valley, you're doing it wrong — unless you're using the right kind. And by "right," I mean seasoned hardwoods cut from the Appalachian hills, not whatever's left over from your neighbor's tree service. I've been splitting, stacking, and smoking with these woods for 20 years, and I'll tell you straight: green wood, softwoods, and poorly seasoned logs are a waste of your time, money, and chimney.
This isn't just about heat — it's about efficiency, safety, and flavor. Whether you're firing up a fireplace to beat a Kentucky winter or slow-smoking a brisket in your backyard, the wood you choose makes all the difference. Let's cut through the nonsense and talk about what actually works.
I. Not All Wood Burns the Same (And Some Shouldn't Burn at All)
You ever notice how some firewood burns like a rocket and others just sit there? That's because wood isn't just wood — it's a mix of cellulose (what burns) and air (what doesn't). The denser the wood, the more cellulose, and the hotter it burns. Here's the breakdown for Ohio Valley hardwoods:
Best for Heat: Oak (red and white), hickory, black locust — These are your workhorses. Oak and hickory burn slow, hot, and long, with a clean flame. Black locust? Even better — it's so dense it sinks in water. If you're heating a home, this is your wood.
Good for Starting (But Not Much Else): Yellow poplar, maple, ash — These burn faster and lighter. They're fine for kindling or getting a fire going, but don't expect them to keep you warm all night.
Stay Away From: Pine, cedar, spruce — These softwoods burn fast and throw off excessive resin, which contributes to faster creosote accumulation in your chimney. That said, creosote isn't just a softwood problem — any wood burned with high moisture content will produce it, regardless of species. Softwoods just stack the deck against you by combining high resin with low density. Save them for outdoor bonfires, not your fireplace.
Pro tip: If you're buying firewood, ask for the species. If the seller won't tell you, walk away.
II. Green Wood = Wasted Money (And a Fire Hazard)
Freshly cut wood — what we call "green wood" — can have a moisture content of 40–60% or higher. That means when you burn it, a huge share of its potential heat energy goes into boiling off that water instead of warming your house. And worse? That moisture turns to steam, which carries creosote (a flammable tar) up your chimney. Over time, that creosote builds up like a grease fire waiting to happen. This is the single biggest cause of chimney fires — and it happens with any species of wood that hasn't been properly dried.
How do you know if your wood is seasoned? There are a few quick field tests:
- Look for cracks on the ends — a sign the wood has dried and shrunk.
- Tap two logs together — if they make a hollow "clunk," they're dry. A dull thud? Still green.
- Check the weight. Seasoned wood feels noticeably lighter because the water's gone.
- Check the color. Seasoned wood fades to gray or light brown; green wood looks fresh and bright.
These tests are useful in the field, but they're not definitive. The only way to truly confirm your wood is ready to burn is with a pin-style moisture meter — split a log and measure the center of the fresh face. You're looking for a reading below 20% moisture content. Anything above 25% needs more time.
Under proper conditions — split, stacked off the ground with airflow on all sides, top covered — most hardwoods will reach that sub-20% target in 6–12 months. But time alone doesn't guarantee it. Seasoning is about conditions, not calendar pages. A cord stacked in a shady hollow with no wind can sit for a year and still be wet. The same wood in an open, elevated, well-ventilated setup can be ready in half the time.
III. BBQ and Smoking? Pick the Right Wood for the Job
If you're smoking meat, the wood isn't just fuel — it's flavor. In the Ohio Valley, we've got two standout woods for smoking:
Hickory — The classic. Strong, bacon-like flavor. Great for pork, beef, and even some fish. But use it sparingly — too much hickory can overpower delicate meats like chicken.
Apple or Cherry (if you can get 'em locally) — These fruitwoods add a sweet, mild smoke. Perfect for poultry, fish, or lighter meats. If you're stuck with hardwoods, oak works in a pinch, but it's heavier on the flavor.
What you shouldn't use for smoking? Pine or any softwood. The high resin content produces acrid, bitter smoke that will ruin the flavor of your meat — and your smoker's seasoning over time.
If you're in a hurry, stick to hickory or oak — you can't go wrong.
IV. Where to Buy Firewood (Without Getting Ripped Off)
Here's the hard truth: most firewood sold in gas stations, grocery stores, or roadside stands is green, mixed species, or downright garbage. If it's cheap, there's a reason. Don't fall for it.
What to look for when buying:
- Local and seasoned — Wood should be cut and dried in the same region. Ohio Valley hardwoods burn best here.
- Split and stacked — If it's still in whole logs, it's not ready to burn.
- Verified moisture content — A reputable seller should be able to tell you the MC of their inventory. If they can't, that's a red flag.
- Sold by the cord (not the truckload) — A cord is 128 cubic feet of stacked wood. If they won't measure it, they're hiding something.
And if you're in the Ashland, Greenup, or Tri-State area, you don't have to hunt for good wood. We cut, split, and season our hardwoods right here in Greenup, Kentucky, and deliver within 60 miles. No green wood, no fillers — just dry, dense, Appalachian hardwoods that burn hot and clean. Give us a call, and we'll set you up right.
V. Final Word: Don't Guess — Know
Firewood isn't just a commodity. It's a skill. The right wood keeps you warm, cooks your meat, and keeps your chimney safe. The wrong wood? It's a headache, a waste of money, and a fire hazard.
If you're serious about heating or smoking, learn your wood. Season it right — or buy from someone who measures it, not someone who guesses. And if you're short on time or patience, we've got you covered.
— Rayven
Phoenix Nest Firewood
Greenup, Kentucky
Delivering seasoned hardwood to Greenup, Ashland, and the Tri-State. Because you shouldn't have to settle for less.
The Ohio Valley Firewood Guide: What to Burn, What to Skip, and Why It Matters
If you're burning wood in the Ohio Valley, you're doing it wrong — unless you're using the right kind. And by "right," I mean seasoned hardwoods cut from the Appalachian hills, not whatever's left over from your neighbor's tree service. I've been splitting, stacking, and smoking with these woods for 20 years, and I'll tell you straight: green wood, softwoods, and poorly seasoned logs are a waste of your time, money, and chimney.
This isn't just about heat — it's about efficiency, safety, and flavor. Whether you're firing up a fireplace to beat a Kentucky winter or slow-smoking a brisket in your backyard, the wood you choose makes all the difference. Let's cut through the nonsense and talk about what actually works.
I. Not All Wood Burns the Same (And Some Shouldn't Burn at All)
You ever notice how some firewood burns like a rocket and others just sit there? That's because wood isn't just wood — it's a mix of cellulose (what burns) and air (what doesn't). The denser the wood, the more cellulose, and the hotter it burns. Here's the breakdown for Ohio Valley hardwoods:
Best for Heat: Oak (red and white), hickory, black locust — These are your workhorses. Oak and hickory burn slow, hot, and long, with a clean flame. Black locust? Even better — it's so dense it sinks in water. If you're heating a home, this is your wood.
Good for Starting (But Not Much Else): Yellow poplar, maple, ash — These burn faster and lighter. They're fine for kindling or getting a fire going, but don't expect them to keep you warm all night.
Stay Away From: Pine, cedar, spruce — These softwoods burn fast and throw off excessive resin, which contributes to faster creosote accumulation in your chimney. That said, creosote isn't just a softwood problem — any wood burned with high moisture content will produce it, regardless of species. Softwoods just stack the deck against you by combining high resin with low density. Save them for outdoor bonfires, not your fireplace.
Pro tip: If you're buying firewood, ask for the species. If the seller won't tell you, walk away.
II. Green Wood = Wasted Money (And a Fire Hazard)
Freshly cut wood — what we call "green wood" — can have a moisture content of 40–60% or higher. That means when you burn it, a huge share of its potential heat energy goes into boiling off that water instead of warming your house. And worse? That moisture turns to steam, which carries creosote (a flammable tar) up your chimney. Over time, that creosote builds up like a grease fire waiting to happen. This is the single biggest cause of chimney fires — and it happens with any species of wood that hasn't been properly dried.
How do you know if your wood is seasoned? There are a few quick field tests:
- Look for cracks on the ends — a sign the wood has dried and shrunk.
- Tap two logs together — if they make a hollow "clunk," they're dry. A dull thud? Still green.
- Check the weight. Seasoned wood feels noticeably lighter because the water's gone.
- Check the color. Seasoned wood fades to gray or light brown; green wood looks fresh and bright.
These tests are useful in the field, but they're not definitive. The only way to truly confirm your wood is ready to burn is with a pin-style moisture meter — split a log and measure the center of the fresh face. You're looking for a reading below 20% moisture content. Anything above 25% needs more time.
Under proper conditions — split, stacked off the ground with airflow on all sides, top covered — most hardwoods will reach that sub-20% target in 6–12 months. But time alone doesn't guarantee it. Seasoning is about conditions, not calendar pages. A cord stacked in a shady hollow with no wind can sit for a year and still be wet. The same wood in an open, elevated, well-ventilated setup can be ready in half the time.
III. BBQ and Smoking? Pick the Right Wood for the Job
If you're smoking meat, the wood isn't just fuel — it's flavor. In the Ohio Valley, we've got two standout woods for smoking:
Hickory — The classic. Strong, bacon-like flavor. Great for pork, beef, and even some fish. But use it sparingly — too much hickory can overpower delicate meats like chicken.
Apple or Cherry (if you can get 'em locally) — These fruitwoods add a sweet, mild smoke. Perfect for poultry, fish, or lighter meats. If you're stuck with hardwoods, oak works in a pinch, but it's heavier on the flavor.
What you shouldn't use for smoking? Pine or any softwood. The high resin content produces acrid, bitter smoke that will ruin the flavor of your meat — and your smoker's seasoning over time.
If you're in a hurry, stick to hickory or oak — you can't go wrong.
IV. Where to Buy Firewood (Without Getting Ripped Off)
Here's the hard truth: most firewood sold in gas stations, grocery stores, or roadside stands is green, mixed species, or downright garbage. If it's cheap, there's a reason. Don't fall for it.
What to look for when buying:
- Local and seasoned — Wood should be cut and dried in the same region. Ohio Valley hardwoods burn best here.
- Split and stacked — If it's still in whole logs, it's not ready to burn.
- Verified moisture content — A reputable seller should be able to tell you the MC of their inventory. If they can't, that's a red flag.
- Sold by the cord (not the truckload) — A cord is 128 cubic feet of stacked wood. If they won't measure it, they're hiding something.
And if you're in the Ashland, Greenup, or Tri-State area, you don't have to hunt for good wood. We cut, split, and season our hardwoods right here in Greenup, Kentucky, and deliver within 60 miles. No green wood, no fillers — just dry, dense, Appalachian hardwoods that burn hot and clean. Give us a call, and we'll set you up right.
V. Final Word: Don't Guess — Know
Firewood isn't just a commodity. It's a skill. The right wood keeps you warm, cooks your meat, and keeps your chimney safe. The wrong wood? It's a headache, a waste of money, and a fire hazard.
If you're serious about heating or smoking, learn your wood. Season it right — or buy from someone who measures it, not someone who guesses. And if you're short on time or patience, we've got you covered.
— Rayven
Phoenix Nest Firewood
Greenup, Kentucky
Delivering seasoned hardwood to Greenup, Ashland, and the Tri-State. Because you shouldn't have to settle for less.